![]() Solder four female Molex pins to the other ends of the wires. These jacks will later connect to the ground loop isolator (see below). Use electrical tape to ensure the soldered connections cannot touch. The positive wires go on the center pins of the RCA jacks and the negative wires go on the outside pins. The jacks unscrew to expose the solder points. ![]() Strip both ends of all four wires and solder RCA (female) jacks to one end of each wire pair. It is best if the positive and negative wires are different colors to avoid confusion. Start with two 1-foot lengths of 2-strand bonded speaker wire (14-16 gauge). The parts needed can all be found at Radio Shack (see photo for part numbers and approximate prices). This step requires a bit of very basic soldering but don't panic if I can do it, anyone can. Step 1 - Make a Pigtail to Tap Into the OEM Stereo Wiring Harness Special thanks to board members Teecro and Rottweiler whose ideas I used for this design. Also, a passenger jack could easily be wired in with additional cables and adaptors. With a few routing modifications, the same setup could be used to feed the stereo signal to an Autocom or other bike intercom. Assuming you already have (or can borrow a soldering gun, the total cost for this setup is about $30 (less the headphones), but bargain hunters can probably save a few bucks. The fader control is used to send the signal either to the dash speakers (front), the headphones (rear), or any combination of the two. ![]() The following procedure uses the rear speaker outputs on the OEM stereo to allow the rider to listen through inexpensive (or high end) in-helmet or in-ear headphones. ![]()
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